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Patman's Tech sheet


 Now, Patman will be the absolute first to admit that, he don't know everythin' there is to know about scooters. 

 But, if there's one little piece of the puzzle you're missin', maybe you can find it here...maybe. If not, ask via e-mail, & if anyone here has had experience with a similar situation we'll share our tips & tricks...after all if ridin's easier, then it's more fun !!  

 

  So how 'bout this one? Everybody who races or rides, off-road, has probably put a pipe protector on before. So I figure you can do that. But the other day that it occurred to me, that there might be a better way than to beat the hell outta, my pipe & protector, with a hammer. Thus loosening the pipe / cylinder seal, which may cause a pressure leak.

So, I present to you the Patman method for the initial forming of a Moose Racing Type Pipe Protector. ( Moose offers one of the best ones on the market )

 

Tip:

 Starting at the small end, use a pair of levers ( in this case a couple of 3/8 socket wrench extensions ), to bend, or twist, the protector around the curves of the pipe. I put it on the floor, bend it a little, then fit it to the head pipe, then take it off, & bend some more. Go one joint at a time, keeping the the protector flowing smoothly along the pipe. It should touch everywhere, & a good fit will stay on the pipe ( static ) with no clamps.   As the pipe starts to twist in a different direction, reposition the levers to make a smooth twist in the protector. Again one joint at a time.

.pipeform2.jpg (10823 bytes)

Tip:

Also pertaining to pipe protector installation. You can smoothly widen / flatten the protector, for those "Fatty" type pipes offered by FMF, by adjusting your bench vise to a point where the jaws are not quite open as far as the protector is wide, & then smackin; it with a hammer to force it over the outside of the vise jaws. Use a piece of rubber to keep the hammer from marring the surface of your new protector...the rocks will take care of that tomorrow !

pipeform1.jpg (5693 bytes)

 

 

 

Tip:

Ok, well what about this?

We all know that you should put Duct tape around your rims to help prevent spoke nipple induced flats. But if ya wanna do a nice job of cuttin' out the Valve stem, & Rim lock holes, check this.

Once the rim is clean, & you've got a couple of layers of tape in the center ( Center only, of course ) of the rim, use an 8mm hex wrench, to twist back & forth in the hole against the tape. The 8mm hex wrench, wont go through the holes but the twisting motion will cut off the tape & make a clean hole. Now if your hole is larger or smaller, use any hard object that will rub against the sides ( edges )  of the hole without going through.

rimtape1.jpg (27813 bytes)       rimtape2.jpg (7161 bytes)        rimtape3.jpg (18764 bytes)

Click to enlarge of course.

 

 

 

Tip:

I know I don't have to tell ya how important it is to put powder inside the tire, & all over the Heavy duty tube, right ?

We all know how powder allows the tube to move slightly to help prevent abrasion flats, & sometimes the powder will allow the tube to move outta the way of the rim, when it would've pinch flatted.  Oh yeah, while you wanna get the rim-lock snug, you might not wanna get the valve stem not too tight, for fear that any movement might tear it.

tirepowder1.jpg (12560 bytes)

click to enlarge of course.


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